Denims have witnessed a variety of value addition techniques and embellishments in the last few seasons, with techniques like jacquard, tone-on-tone printing and patchwork finding their way into the collections of designers and exporters. But with the revival of washes and innovative techniques on denim in the last Fall 2016 runways, design teams at export houses have picked up this growing trend and started to develop crafty versions of the regular denim. The timeless story of denim has continued from year to year and season to season, with innovations that are hard to count and possibilities that are limitless to imagine. Picking from runways to retail, the fashion team at Apparel Online brings the top denim trends for S/S ’17…
This season Blue Denim grabbed some serious attention as it transformed from a casual daily wear fabric to be used by designers to create trendy high-fashion garments adorned by power giants. An extensive line of indigo essentials walked down the recent runways, ranging creatively from shredded to dark-wash, low-slung to high-waist, and even patched or bedazzled, washed, raw, straight or slim. From simple studs, all-over sequins, to washed distressed denims, embellished and washed jeans are a big trend for summer. Working on similar lines, Bittoo Overseas, exporter of readymade garments, has developed a collection with denim, creating a trompe-l’oeil effect of heavyweight denims. Elaborating further, Loveleena Dubey, Designer at the company shares, “For our S/S ’17 collection, we are developing a range of indigo dyed chambray garments with ‘aari’ embroidery in shaded threads. We are getting a great response from our clients, as they like this low on cost, but high on style embroidered version of denim.”
Denims got a bit more multi-faceted than usual as value addition found a serious following among designers. In the recently concluded runways of Fall 2016, distinct interpretations came alive and turned a new chapter in denim embroideries, washes and other interpretations. Chanel garnished its bottoms with tonal embroidery which gave the effect of embossing, while Jerome went for an extravagant version with gems, sequins and beads harmoniously placed on the edges. Imaginations ran wild when designers injected denim fringes heavily on the runway by making use of patchwork. 69 presented a mash-up of haphazardly placed denim fringes.
Destroyed and Distressed
Frayed edges, distressed finishes, and destroyed details lend a casual look to denim. One of the key looks of denim this year, unkempt and brazen, originates from its inherent raw character. The season saw threads on garment edges left undone in abundance. Destroyed and distressed effect was spotted on the hemlines of skirts, dresses and shorts, in addition to the obvious jeans. The interesting pieces focused on the trend being taken a notch higher through assembling disintegrated parts of a silhouette with each piece ending in frayed edges. Instead of just hemlines, creating a deconstructed look through fraying could be further explored too.
Stained
Denim’s ability to find a common ground with art will be flatteringly exploited this season. Although statement techniques – aggressively washed denim and alike – have continually inspired designers to express through their denim ensembles, this season tones down the dyeing effect to suit daywear sensibilities. While denim jeans still rule this category, similar surface techniques have been transferred onto crossover jackets, overalls and high waist skirts. “Two to three finishes are applied in some cases to resemble acid wash and in others to mirror digital prints creating an optical 3D illusion. Staining is a trend which has seen a gradual growth in the last two seasons, and in this season it has got the most prominence,” shares Swati Jankoli, Sr. Merchandiser, Shrijee Lifestyle, an exporter of denim garments that specializes in value addition.
Whitened
Last season witnessed denim gradating towards lighter shades with erratic discolouration on sleeves, hems and collars. The trend has a stronger foothold in collections now as garments have been coloured in lighter shades; and in some cases, even stark white, sky and powder blue. Silhouettes played with were endless – skinny jeans, jackets, crop tops, playsuits, short shorts and dresses – hardly any silhouette was missing in this trend since the neutral palette mixes effortlessly well with bold colours and pattern. This faded streak of denim compliments the surge of pastel shades which are bound to dominate the coming seasons.
Patchwork and Panelling
Designers sewed on more typical patches such as stars and flowers, and also not-so-mainstream ones – mushrooms, the sun, falcon, four of a kind aces, poker chips, bicycles, bows, red beetles, amongst others. In the midst of these pictorial patches, there lay logo patches and oversized alphabets too, which ranged from the brand’s name to city number plates. Leather patches were used for panelling on pockets and cuffs and the entire sleeve on some silhouettes and in others, on kneepads or randomly placed on the pants. Rajesh Sachdeva, Managing Director, Upper Class Fashions , discussing about patching and panelling says, “Besides leather, printed cotton and knit patches are also being sewn on denim. Floral, paisley or plaid patterned patchwork is resulting in an interesting look. We are even creating squares of different textures and putting them together by taking inspiration from Moschino’s collection of last season.”
Embellished
Imaginations ran wild with designers injecting colour on the runway by making use of golden patchwork and multi-coloured sequin; metallic found its way through silver chains, mirror work, zippers and shimmering beadwork were also seen aplenty and for a subtle yet intricate pattern on denim, embroidery was brought into play in shiny threads – contrasting colours in some, and tone-on-tone on others.
Fringed
Fringes and tassels have been a decorative element since the ancient times, but fringed denim is a completely new concept. Introduced on the runways by the designs like Tome and 69, heavy fringing was seen on jackets surfaces, hems and sleeves. After becoming a huge surface trend on bags, now we are witnessing fringing on every garment and home furnishing item possible, may be this is the reason denims are also getting adorned with this value addition technique. Explaining the sudden growth in demand for fringes, Manish Modiani, Director, SaiBa Expo said, “These days buyers are not very keen on buying expensive styles, therefore they are looking forward to buying styles which are less pricey but have an interesting surface ornamentation. And as fringes are able to provide just that, it is being used in almost all the styles.”
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